Okay, here we are. Final thoughts. Great Ocean Walk. At last, a bit of a wrap-up, where I’ll share some impressions of the autumn tilt at this 100 km Victorian coastal walk. I completed it for the third time this year. I’ve already written an overview from my last trip back in 2010, so why am I doing it again? Well, I thought it might make sense to tie up some loose ends, which may have been missed in the posts.
The thing is, did I want to write a post with advice or maybe some general waffle about nothing, other than how did working week go by so slowly? In the end, I thought I’d throw together a bit of a comparison between then and now. You might get a couple of tips, but then again, I wouldn’t follow them if I was you. You’d probably end up falling off a cliff or finding yourself knotted up in a fishnet singlet, which is my usual hiking attire.
Oh yeah, as my previous blurb from 2010 was a lot less bombastic, the posts tended to be shorter with only a handful of photos. Just to keep you on your toes, I’ve elected to throw the baby out of the apple-cart and feature pictures taken from four years ago. I figured you’d never seen them before anyway and as they’re taken from the same joint, they can’t do much harm. Unless you’re afraid of spiders.
Where do I start? That’s pretty easy, as the walk is getting better. It always seemed to be held back by three elongated inland sections. Elliot Ridge to Blanket Bay, Johanna Beach to Ryans Den and Devils Kitchen to Twelve Apostles. Ah, but you can cross the last one off the list, as the stretch from Devils Kitchen is now lovely walking, with not a hint of the fearsomely hideous Old Coach Road to be seen.
On my map there are mentions of possible realignments in the other sections, so one can keep their fingers crossed. Actually, what about the maps? I have the official Parks Victoria/Meridian, Great Ocean Walk maps from the first edition in 2010 and the third edition from 2012. Lo and behold, between the two, there are some weird things going on.
Have a look at this. I assume a risk assessment regarding liability has trawled through in detail and the results are as follows. My most enjoyable part of the hike was from Blanket Bay to Cape Otway, whilst walking the open rocks. Here’s the 2010 map for this section.
Great Ocean Walk – Map Detail – 2010 Edition
Mm… No worries, there’s a decision point where you can decide to head up over the cliffs or along the rocks. The current map is a little different. Here it is…
GOW Map Detail – 2012 Edition.
Ah, I see. They’ve flat out said it’s not part of the GOW at all. Let it be said, if the tide is low, to hell with their suggestion about it not being part of the GOW. Bloody hell, there’s bits of a shipwreck to look at. Anyway, there’s another thing about the maps, which is strange.
All along the walk there are numbered decision points. Large posts with a spiel of a sign explaining what’s to come. Well, as you can see on the old map, the decision point is included.
Decision Points – GOW Map 2010 Edition.
So what’s going on with the new map? I’ll tell you what. They’ve got rid of them. I only found this out after standing under a sign and wondering where it was on the map. I thought it was early senility brought on by a mate head-butting me by accident in a Townsville discothèque in 1984, leaving me semi-concious whilst the music didn’t stop and people grooved around me whilst I was lying on the floor. I think ‘Purple Rain’ was being played at the time? Definitely the song to listen to whilst your eyes are glazed from a head injury.
Luckily though, my Troop Sergeant was there and in his eagerness to awaken and bring me back to life, applied a hose to my face. Unfortunately, due to a combination of being extremely dumb and mild alcohol poisoning, the hose he used was designed for fire fighting and the resultant water pressure lifted my head off my shoulders, spun it around a number of times before he realised he was’t fighting the Chicago Fire, but trying to help out a fellow digger. Yeah, that was the occasion which came back to me as I was standing under the GOW sign, wondering where it went on the map.
Decision points not numbered – 2012 edition.
So, I think we’re happy to conclude the maps have been rejigged over the past couple of years. My only hunch (and it’s based on absolutely nothing) is the numbered points might get the flick and instead, there will be a sign, rather than some pole action.
Wrapping up the maps, I can honestly say you can survive without one. The track is so clearly marked, a map isn’t needed for navigation. It would come in handy though if you wanted to bail out somewhere and hightail it to the nearest road. Oh, another reason is maybe you forgot your book and need some reading material?
What other differences did I notice between trips? In each shelter there used to be a walkers intention book. Well, they’ve got the arse. It’s a pity, as they had some handy reading material once I’d finished perusing the map each night. The books always delivered a surprise, such as this one at Eliot Ridge…
…and scribbles of wisdom, like this at Johanna Beach…
…and there I was thinking it was dried milk on the table.
Actually, the books aren’t a great loss, as they were filled with crap and are a magnet for toolish behaviour. Ripped out pages and notations such as, ‘there are hills’, are not really going to rival Ulysses as the pinnacle of literature.
Okay, what else? Oh yeah, this one bothered me. On my last trip around Cape Otway, I was deluged by koalas. There were millions of them (at least a dozen). Remember these ones…
…pottering around the Cape Otway campsite?
Well, there were none to be seen on this trip and a number of trees around the campsite were unrecognisable. The furry blighters appear to have eaten themselves out of house and home. Towering, leafy eucalypt trees were stripped bare and if I didn’t know better, they appeared to be dead. It was a shame, as this was the most Australiana place I’d ever slept in. Total koala count for 2014? None.
Next? I read somewhere on the trip there’s a potential for the track to be extended to Port Campbell. If this is the case, hallelujah, as it solves a problem I had since first contemplating the hike. Right now, the finish line is a bus stop on the side of the Great Ocean Road. There you are, after a weeks walk, stuck on the side of the road like a hobo.
Yes, the aim is the Twelve Apostles and approaching them is quite spectacular. As long as you’re prepared for what seems to be Richtofen’s Flying Circus buzzing overhead. I had no idea those god-damned Apostles attracted such a crowd.
You can’t leave a car at the finish line for the week, as there’s no parking allocated for such a thing, so if you’re without a lift, you’ve got to rely on the bus, which only runs three days a week. That’s one reason on the previous trips I cut it a little short, by bailing out at Princetown.
Ah yes, but if only the track continued a measly 12 more kilometres, you’d find yourself in Port Campbell with accommodation and chicken parmigiana’s within reach. This could also create the potential for the…. wait for it… walk the other direction possibility.
As it stands you can only go east to west. Obviously this has been determined by the grand finish. The thing is, if you’re going for a coastal walk in Victoria, the prevailing wind is a westerly, so if the weather is nuts, you’ll have it in your face. There’s a reason I walked Croajingolong and the Great South West Walk in the other direction. I didn’t want my face shredded by sand and wind if the weather turned apocalyptic.
I know what you’re thinking though. I’ve even considered it myself. The one thing the GOW doesn’t have compared to the other walks I just mentioned and that’s long sections of beach walking. If you abide by the map, you’ll rarely be on the beach, so maybe a fearsome westerly wouldn’t be too horrific? At least you’re not having your delicate features sand-blasted.
Oh, one more thing about this topic. I’ve no idea why, but it’s as if a lot of the signs have been set up, as if you’re walking west to east. Without fail we’d get somewhere and find a sign informing where we’d come from and the distance to our start point. It almost seems the signage was done years ago, before the walk became the GOW and the ‘you can only walk east to west’ business started. Again, it’s only an observation and really, you won’t lose sleep over it. I did, as it just took me 10 minutes to write this crap.
Waffling on is easy, but I should finish up. I don’t care what anyone says, I still love this walk and if they continue to realign parts or even lengthen it, I might give myself a chinese-burn and do it again. It’s a nice way to spend a week along a pretty interesting section of coastline, which is what the whole place is about.
Step back from the walking caper and remember you’re walking amongst the departed. Although the Shipwreck Coast was relentless in its toll on mariners in the 1800’s, even to this day, its brutal waters don’t give up the dead. One only has to observe the graves…
…headstones…
…and memorials…
…to bring home the tragedy which exists along here. It’s not even the dark green, churning water, which has indifference to people who venture into it. One only has to look behind the guard rail where the Great Ocean Road meets the Great Ocean Walk to see it’s not just the sea that can be lethal.
Roadside memorial – Castle Rock, Great Ocean Road
Is there anything else? Probably, but it’s Friday night and after a week in the slaveship, I’m done. Best I hit publish and walk away.
Finalising with a few photos will be the perfect swansong. I forgot to mention Wreck Beach. It’s certainly worth the ear-popping descent from cliff top to the sand and not just to see the shipwreck anchors. On the cliff face, water was oozing out across the rocks, creating quite a colourful sight.
Anyway, that’s it. One thing I missed out on this trip was a decent sunset. I was lucky a few years ago with this one at Ryans Den…
…and remember, if it’s winter and you’ve got a nice sunset at the Twelve Apostles, stand fast in the encroaching icy conditions, as you’re sure to see a good one.
NB – 10/4/14: It’s only just occurred to me I should provide a link where you can find all my posts about this trip on the one page. Navigation on a blog can always be a bit tricky, but I think is the best solution. My opening post regarding this walk has a link for each particular day. As this is the last post about the GOW, I guess it makes sense to link back to it in case this is where you come to first!
Anyway, if none of this makes any sense, head to this link titled ‘Great Ocean Walk, Victoria. March 2014’ and I’m sure it’ll be a bit clearer…
NB – 16/10/17: Remember the bit I mentioned about walking Milanesia Beach? If the tide is low, I always preferred to walk the beach rather than take the Parks Vic recommended high tide route. Especially if there is no need to take the high tide route! Alas, I walked it again a month ago and the exit off Milanesia Beach is overgrown and a bit of a bash to get off the beach and back to the track. Parks Vic have discouraged anyone walking the beach to its end by removing access from its exit. So, you can still do it, but just expect a bit of a bash to get off the beach. It’s probably not worth it anymore.
🙂 Very Pretty
Thank you Emma!
I didn't think this post was going to get a comment, which was a poor reward, seeing how I bought the latest GOW map, just for this post. That was $16 wasted 🙂
Thanks for dropping by and taking the time to comment!
I have walked bits of the Great-ish Ocean Walk and I'm planning another trip for later in the year. I've attentively read your very enjoyable and often amusing reports. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and excellent photographs. I hope you keep doing it.
Some might say that not all of your writing deserves rapturous acclamation, but I am partial to a bit of inappropriate silliness and appropriate sarcasm! Your reports on other locations have also been informative (but occasionally nonsensical) and entertaining (but occasionally forgettable). You seem well acquainted with the fine line between pleasure and pain (and perhaps also Hegelian dialectics!). Looking forward to following your future ramblings.
John
Thanks John. I've heard some people call it the 'Not so Great Ocean Walk'. Bah, all walks have their compromises, so I can't see what the problem is. I've some great memories along the coast there.
Thanks also about the writing! I sometimes waver, but I still try and stick to how I started and that's only write what I want to read and what entertains me. Obviously it'll be hit and miss, even for myself and others will think it's soley miss 🙂 I believe though, as soon as one writes to what they think others want to read, well, the show's over!
Outdoor writing can be a little dry, but I've always wanted the hiking part to be just a framework, so I can muse on pain, anguish and potatoes.
Thanks for dropping by and taking the time to comment!
Please watch the documentry the Art of Walking ,which is about The great ocean walk and how three people ,from different countries see this beautiful stretech of coast.See it on You Tube.
Hi Louisa, thanks for your tip! Yes, I do have that documentary sitting around some place. I must give it a revisit! Always interesting seeing other persons opinions about a walk. Thanks for taking time to leave a comment 🙂
Thanks for sharing your walks and photos. We are going to drive the Great Ocean Road in May and hope to do a short walk, weather permitting. I'll be taking plenty of photos on the way.
Cheers, Greg.
Sorry for the world's slowest reply. An extended blog hiatus can do that. Hopefully you've got some time in down the Great Ocean Road. I might be down there again next month. Yet again!
Just what I was looking for. I too last did the GOW a few years ago (over three weekends) and I was wondering if there had been any track realignments since. Thanks
Hi Lynn. Mm… I’m pretty sure nothing has changed since these 2014 posts. I’m contemplating another visit at the end of this month. If there are any changes, I’ll make sure to include them in the blog!
Hi Greg,
Firstly let me say, your blog is fantastic. I must admit that as man with a weak bladder I am always careful reading your blog, the saying “pissing myself laughing” can sometimes have a literal sense in my circumstances.
But now after telling you about the joys of my aging body I’m hoping to pick your brains a little. I am heading down to do the GOW in a couple of months time and just wanted to ask you a couple of questions.
In your previous walks you mentioned that you parked your car at Princetown general store. As I have seen 12 Apostles and the surrounding tourist circus and was not needing to see again, I was wondering if you know whether this option is still available? Did you just call general store directly to organize this?
Decision point disappearance, Do you know whether the DP signs along the track still exist, or have gone the way of the map? If they have gone would it still be easy to pick these points without a map handy?
Oh one last question before I stop the torture, you mention that Marengo is a much better place to start walk, is it easy to find GOW track from drop off point?
Cheers Mark.
Hi Mark,
Hey, thanks for your kind words. Always appreciated! The blog is undergoing a tinkering, so hopefully you got to read what you were after.
Yeah, although I’ve done the GOW three times, the first was in 2009 and last in 2014, so some info might not be entirely up to date! Regarding the Princetown store, all I did was give them a call. Give Google a go, as that’s how I got onto them. They were more than happy to keep my car off the street and on some land next to their shop. Not sure if that’s still the case though? If so, it’s handy, as Princetown has its own bus stop. A short wander down the hill from the shop to the stop was a simple piece of organising!
On my first trip, the bus driver told me the stretch from Apollo Bay to Marengo sucked, so he more or less told me to get out. A bit weird, but that’s standard fare for most walks I do. Anyway, it makes sense. Unless you want to go into Apollo Bay and start at the official sign for the GOW? If not, you’re not missing much. It’s a 5 km walk along the road to Marengo and only then does it feel like the walk has started 🙂 Don’t worry, signage is good! You’ll see the blue GOW signs as you reach Marengo. They then lead you through the caravan park and onto a track next to the beaches. A few turns here and there, but I remember the signs leading the way. Unless someone has taken them away, but I don’t think so!
The decision points still exist, but I don’t think they’re all on the map anymore? On the first leg there are millions of them, which I assume is a bit of a guide to get you in the swing of things 🙂 As per these things, they’re geared for complete risk management! Sometimes I wondered why they bothered, as it’s quite obvious if you can go on a beach or not. Remember that Milanesia Beach business. If you can walk the beach, do so, as otherwise the signs send you up over some hills just for the fun of it 🙂 Also, that bit at Parkers Inlet has become a ‘take the high track only’ type of thing. If it’s low tide though, it’s way easier and more interesting to follow the rock platforms. They’re easy to walk on and at least there’s some stuff to look at. Shipwrecks etc.
Hopefully some of this makes sense, but if it doesn’t, feel free to send me an email and I’ll tackle the answer with some more detail!
Hi Again,
Have another question for you, just reading Parks Victoria write up for GOR walk and notice they will not guarantee water availability at camps. Just wanted your take on this, have you ever run into empty tanks? Would you recommend carting water in??
Thanks in advance, Mark
Yeah, I’ve seen that notice from Parks Vic for the GOW during the last few summers. Hard to say what it will be like. These posts are for my last GOW trip, which was in March of that year. It was quite warm and I wore shorts all week. We didn’t have any problem with water in the tanks though. I’d only be guessing if they’re good or bad now, so you might have to ring Parks Vic to find out. Try and get in touch with relevant ranger down that way? From experience, the places that might be short of water were the ones that share with car camping. At Aire River, on one of my trips, there were people from the car camping openly using the hikers tanks, even though there are signs everywhere telling them not to. The same might occur at Blanket Bay. Definitely a pain and I’m sorry I haven’t got an exact answer!
That was a great read. I first walked it back in 1994 when most of the tracks weren’t even marked. It’s a real shame about the one direction thing though. It’s not really self reliance when you have to rely on public transport at the other end.
I can imagine it would have been a lot different back in 1994! My first visit was in 2009 and more than enough has changed since then. Mainly for the better I guess. Although it’s all one way, I’ve come across people going the opposite direction on most of my trips there. It still would be nice to lengthen it to Port Campbell. As it is, most times I get to Princetown and pull the pin as it’s had to pass my car which is parked at the Reserve!