Nelson to White Sands, Great South West Walk, Victoria. Winter 2012

Well, here we go again. It’s another stage of the eternal saga of the Great South West Walk (GSWW). Mind you, I’m on the home straight now with just the stroll along the coast from the coastal town of Nelson back to Portland.

By the way, do you realise these GSWW posts are the least read entries I’ve written over the past year? No love out there for the Victorian coast? Don’t worry though, as there’s no way I’d quit writing about each particular day until this hike is done. I do get a bit of perverse pleasure that no one’s reading it. It’s the same as having too much ice-cream after dinner and you’re forced to whip yourself with a cat o’ nine tales as punishment for eating all of that glorious sugar. Do you see what I mean?

I shouldn’t complain though, as I’ve always wanted to write about hikes that have barely any online coverage. The reading statistics might take a hit, but as that famous saying goes, ‘It’s better to die on your feet, than live on your knees at the glory hole’.

Now, Nelson. I’d met Smuffin that afternoon and he was adamant about one thing. “Don’t stay at the pub”, was his mantra. He’d arrived the night before and elected to have a room in the local hotel. Little did he know that the accommodation was in danger of imminent collapse, due to damaged walls that appeared to have suffered too much ‘combat Karma Sutra’ over the years. Not to mention the local netball team were staying there as well. Besides packing more punch than Haystacks Calhoun, they also drank more than him as well.

So, we elected to check into one of the caravan parks for the night, before descending on the pub for dinner. I must say though, it was a little odd in there. Firstly, we noted a ruddy faced bloke sitting at the bar with his face in a beer. He was watching an Aboriginal bloke on television singing some sort of song at an Australian Day celebration. Mr. Ruddy wasn’t happy with this sight, as he uttered to another bloke, “Why do they get an abo to sing? The pricks don’t even celebrate Australia Day!” Mm… Interesting. I too have wondered why the Aboriginals don’t show any gratitude for the white blokes taking over their country and slaughtering them.

Anyway, we moved on from the casual racism and perused the menu. One dish called ‘Shelton’s Snags’ caught our eye and Smuffin asked the barman, “What’s the ‘Shelton Snags’?” The barman looked at him incredulous and said, “They’re sausages!!” Now, did he really think we were so stupid that we’d never heard the term ‘snag’ before? Those crazy city slickers! Didn’t know a ‘snag’ was a sausage!! As a result, I still don’t know what flavour a Shelton sausage is.

I guess I should get to the actual walk? Yeah okay, I will in minute. Before I do, I must mention that it was nice to sleep in a bed overnight, although the ‘greatest hits’ of Nelson continued when leaving in the morning. Whilst dropping off the key, the owner said, “Have you done the dishes, dried them and put them away?” I thought that was an interesting comment seeing how Smuffin and I were the only people staying in this enormous caravan park. What did he think? We’d whipped up a degustation dinner in the cabin?

Now the walk. This wasn’t going to be a long day distance-wise, but it was all on sand, so it was never going to be that easy. I dropped by the local store (only store) and picked up a food drop I’d left there the week before. Sounds simple? Well, there’s more to that later on. Oh yeah, we also stocked up on some extras.

Don’t even think about not taking the whole jar.

We donned the packs and made our way towards the sound of surf. Showers were passing through, but it wasn’t too bad as we reached a lookout above the sand. Smuffin adopted the ‘ready for business’ pose. Either that or he was busting to go to the comfort station.


That’s quite a noble pose and it reminded me of a painting that I’d seen and as you can see, Smuffin is a dead-ringer for the following. Have a close look. Surrounded by sea, the matching cream coloured pants, black lounge/hiking slippers, dark jacket and a long thing in the hand. You must admit they’re exactly the same?

If you don’t think so, then I suggest doing the following. Dim the lights and squint your eyes whilst staring at the photos. Now do a head stand and continue looking whilst a friend smashes you across the forehead with a rubber mallet. What do you see now? They’re exactly the same aren’t they?


Oh yeah, for all of you heathens who only reached Year 11 at school (that’s me). Who is that in the painting? Well, that’s Admiral Nelson of course and it’s all coming together beautifully, as we just happened to be in Nelson.

Really, the blog writes itself and slipping in a photo of Nelson at Nelson was a cinch. I can’t wait to repeat this when I do a hike on Dildo Island. Can you imagine the photos I’ll come up with for that one? Actually, what happens if I type the word ‘dildo’ in Google images? Will there be any photos online?

Anyway, back to the walking and to put you out of your misery, there’ll be a lot of photos to come. We hit the beach to find that the sand was slightly ‘soft as butter’. In our favour, the wind was behind us as the odd shower passed through.


It’s hard to judge distance on the beach, but we had an outcrop called ‘Shipwreck Rock’ as a target. It was the only feature we could see on the horizon, as it sat in a swirl of sea mist.

Shipwreck Rock in the distance.

There was plenty to keep us occupied though. How about various sized cuttlefish?

The big…
…and the small.

The trouble with writing things six months after they happen is that I don’t remember every detail. The next picture is an example. It’s a bloke waving/drowning, but I can’t recall whether it was a rock, seaweed or bizarro jellyfish.

Help or hello.

We continued on, making slow progress on the soft sand. There was the odd excitement along the way. A raised edge of sand was problematic. The ‘upper level’ was soft, but staying low meant the risk of getting wet boots from waves rushing in. Smuffin was adamant that the ‘top deck’ was the go…


…whereas I was relying on my cat-like reflexes and natural slingshot speed if the waves came too close.

This was a good theory until a wave threatened my boots. I slipped into gear, sprinting for the ‘upper level’ safety with the speed of Carl Lewis after a packet of Valium. That was going well until I launched upwards and promptly caused the sand cliff to collapse and ended up face-planting instead.


I was wedged like that for a while and after extracting myself I noted the sandy cliff was slightly squashed.

The damage is done. No needles though.

Oh yeah, I got wet boots as well. Anyway, Shipwreck Rock was getting closer now.


In the meantime, there was plenty of flotsam to keep us company before reaching the rocks. Wherever you are in the world, rusty nails attached to pieces of timber are keeping the tetanus shots companies in business.


There was a bottle which looked like a relic from the deep…


…and not to be outdone, the bottle had a shellfish encrusted friend.


Briefly I thought I could get online when I spotted a computer case…

Ocean Beach internet cafe.

…but it needed some work to get it going again.

Needs a new screen.

At times the air was filled with a salty mist…


…and then it would clear giving us some sunny breaks.


After walking a while we were both feeling hungry. The trouble is we’d decided not to stop until we passed Shipwreck Rock. Feeling peckish, my sidekick slipped into ‘Bear Smuffs’ mode and elected to eat food that had been washed ashore. A sachet of something was tasted. I declined, but apparently it was spicy.


Whilst food was being collected I was on a roll finding other treasures of the deep. I mean, how much great stuff can a bloke find in a kilometre of walking? Let’s review these ‘flotsam favourites’. Then again, is it jetsam? If so, it’ll be ‘jerrific jetsam’.

Fantastic flipper


Hurrah! Helmet!
Buoy bonanza

How’s that? There’s some pretty good stuff amongst that lot. On the walking front, we reached Shipwreck Rock and finally had some lunch. Looking at the rock though, it took on the appearance of a cat more than anything. If you can’t see that in the next picture, then I suggest you go back earlier in the post and revisit my ‘how to look at a photo’ instructions.

Shipwreck Rock

It was whilst having lunch that I realised something was missing which makes up a big part of the entire lunch experience. Food. I’d picked up my food drop at Nelson earlier in the day, but it seemed to be missing the lunches. I thought this was strange, as I purposely created a list when packing the plastic tub and ticked off everything that was needed. Mm… Had there been a food heist at Nelson?

That mystery would linger for the days to come, but on this occasion I had to search the high tide mark for anything edible. Maybe a Caesar salad was washed up or some toasted ham, cheese and tomato sandwiches? I looked for a while, but couldn’t find anything, so I settled on the next best thing. I had half of Smuffin’s lunch instead. He didn’t mind as he was too busy getting a kick out of standing with the wind to his back and creating severe ‘puffy overpants syndrome’.

‘You can’t touch this’.

The fun and games had to end though. We continued on…


…whilst still passing more debris. Such as this tub…


…and a wheel.


A wheel?

Interesting tread pattern.

Not to mention a table tennis racquet. Huh?


There were some more natural sights than these, as passing showers brought a nice rainbow.



At a distance we spotted a wooden crate on the beach. There was a bit of guessing as to what it contained. We both decided it was full of ‘Johnny Walker Blue Label’ and whilst approaching it, wondered how we were going to carry the booty of bottles.

The wooden crate is in sight.

Unfortunately for us, it was a mirage.


The strolling continued with a fairly featureless horizon…


…until we finally came across the White Sands camp. The sign led the way.


The camp is protected behind the sand dunes, but it was by far the most rudimentary of all of the GSWW sites. There was no shelter other than a tiny roofed area next to the comfort station. This spot became necessary, as we’d barely dropped our packs and a heavy shower passed through. It wasn’t a lot of fun hunkering down in the Gent’s, but it was better than nothing.

Actually, I’ve no idea why I don’t have a photograph, but the toilet appeared to be a relic from an archaeological excavation. The shifting sands had half-buried it and shovelling was needed to uncover the seat. Why don’t I have a photo? I seem to have pictures of every other piece of crap that was going on that day!

Anyway, it’s still a nice spot when the sun comes out.


So, that’s it. What a roller coaster this post has been! Somehow I’ve dragged out a walk of less than 10 km in traditional overblown fashion.

Don’t forget there’s plenty more beach action to come. How about another sunny view above the White Sands camp?


Okay, one more photo and I’m done. Here’s the camp with the Lightheart SoLong tent set-up in non-stealth mode as the light faded.


14 thoughts on “Nelson to White Sands, Great South West Walk, Victoria. Winter 2012”

  1. Hey Greg, I'm back "home" in Korea and after being away a month I find you're still trudging endlessly around this forgotten corner of coastal Victoria! Some enjoyable beach foraging there, and Consolidated Fishermen suggests itself as a great band name.

    I've missed a few posts, no doubt, but I don't remember this tent being mentioned before. Anyway, I will now work my way backwards through your saga and see if that provides enlightenment…

  2. I dunno, you manage to make me laugh with the saga and I love the photos, everyone should be reading these posts! Please hurry up and tell me what happened to your lunch … I have "issues" about missing things being found so I really wanna know LOL

  3. Hey Goat, nice to see you back again. Yes, the world has changed in your life concerning the trip of the century (the century is young, so you can top it later if you want!) but down here in the fiasco land it's Groundhog Day! This trip never stops, but I'm on the home stretch now.

    That really is a good band name. It's funny how the best names are in nondescript phrases! Yeah, you missed a few posts, but I'm sure you can take your time catching up. There will be a certain familiarity with them anyway!

    The tent featured at the start of last year. I've been meaning to do an update, as I've had a couple of problems with it. Luckily another blogger helped me out to fix it and if I don't do a post about that soon she may kill me!

  4. Hi Leah! I'm glad you were entertained! I guess this walk doesn't have a high profile like some others around. I'm not sure how many walkers get along there, but it's well worth it for a look. I'm not sure what has been affected lately though? The fires were pretty close to a lot of the tracks. It'll be interesting to see how it's survived!

    Ah yes, the lunches! I might have to reveal that in the next post. It's pretty stupid, but I'm sure some people will find it funny! You have missing things? I kid you not, but I knew a bloke who misplaced his car! He went to the local shops in the car, left the milkbar and walked home forgetting he'd driven there. For the next two days he was wondering where his car went!

  5. Nice to catch up on your travels again Greg and I'm loving the dreamy beach shots too.
    You almost had me googling things I shouldn't be….

    …I also lost my car once after leaving it at the local shops, and when I woke the next day fuming that somebody had stolen it, my wife reminded me which video store it was parked at….

  6. Hey Darren. Nice to see you're still kicking! Ready for another big year? I'm struggling through Summer, but when the weather cools a bit in the next few months I hope to do some proper walking. You're probably the same? Hoping to get the skis out again?!

    You know what? That's the exact scenario that the bloke I know did! Walked home and wondered why the car was missing. You're not alone!

  7. It's gearing up to be be a big year in my head Greg but the reality of doing a little less is sinking in. I do have another snowkite on the way and plans to float around the main range again this season, which I'm looking forward to.

    My plan to Cross Greenland with the kites has been made that little bit harder but if I can keep fit, who knows….I may just be the oldest person to do the crossing at this rate! I'll get something (anything) up on the blog soon too.

    Cheers mate.

  8. I think I know what you mean! I've got grand plans, but I don't want to give too much away because whenever I do on the blog things seem to go pear-shaped. Right now the fires down here are making me a little anxious for what I have planned!

    Cross Greenland with kites? That sounds pretty epic! Oldest person? I'm 49 in a couple of months and I'm starting to feel every part of my creaky joints…

  9. You guys are copping it with the fires! Hopefully your plans will avoid any drama's or burnt out areas. I remember being absolutely devastated by what I saw after the big fires that hit the Main range years ago. Total and utter carnage as far as the eye could see….

    The Greenland thing has been on the table for a few years now but the money pit that is MS has made it very difficult. I have some friends that have traveled through polar regions with kites and have been inspired to do similar things. It's basically and extension of all the things I've done over a few decades. I'm a spring chicken at 38 but would like to cross the cap while I still have some grunt! :-)

  10. Yeah, that Feathertop fire is right in line where I was intending to walk! What's worse is that it's now jumped the Alpine Highway and things are looking a bit grim as to where it will go. Not to mention that the thought is that area will be closed for at least several weeks at least. So, it's blown my plans, so I'm going for some alternatives. It looks like after a million years of contemplating I'll finally get to the Larapinta Trail.

    I can imagine the problems you're having, plus the stress of the MS just makes things a little worse. My sister is not too bad, but she has to rest a lot. Her lifestyle has to be slow and steady now. In saying that though, she has been lucky as only a few years ago she spent three months in hospital and was in a wheelchair. At least she can get around walking now! Definitely a change in how things are done.

    38? That's a good age to be! I may have been fit at 20 in the army, but definitely in my 30's I was fit and strong at the same time! It's a pity it's gone so wrong since the mid 40's! I seem to get an injury now that will last months on end. The Greenland trip sounds fantastic and everyone needs that once in a lifetime trip to be knocked off at some stage :)

  11. Hey Geg…shit, sorry.. Greg. I may have a little info on the mystery Sheltons Snags!!! It's a family run business in Mt Gambier called Sheltons and Son Butchery. They claim to supply fresh country killed(slaughtered) products to their customers! Straight from the paddock to your plate…a jolly helpful bunch of blokes keen to load you up with all the meat you can eat! Nelson pub's a classic but camping on that river is a favourite spot of mine..except I too have experienced weird and wonderful mobs of yobs fishing and drinking until the wee hours…and yes i think the radio station is called..Radio 5SE. Billy Joel's UpTown Girl is a daily hit with the locals. Luckily, I live a good decent volcanic rock explosion distance from Mt Gambier. I have enjoyed your blogging and definitely laughed quite regularly…good job

  12. Thanks for the Shelton snag update! That's what we were hoping to hear when we asked about them at the pub. Informing us they were sausages was kinda missing the point :) I'd like to get down there again in the warmer months, but no doubt I'd have to endure a lot more people. That could be a problem :)

    Thanks for dropping by!

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